22 Days Island Peak & Lobuche Peak Expedition Overview
This extraordinary 22-day expedition offers the ultimate dual-peak climbing experience in Nepal’s renowned Khumbu region, challenging you to ascend both Lobuche Peak (East) and Island Peak. These are two of the most sought-after trekking peaks, providing an unparalleled opportunity to experience high-altitude mountaineering amidst the world’s highest mountains.
Lobuche Peak (East – 6,119m / 20,075 ft):
Lobuche Peak (East) is a captivating mountain located near the famous Khumbu Glacier and the traditional village of Lobuche. While there are two main peaks (Lobuche East at 6,119m and Lobuche West at 6,145m), our expedition targets Lobuche East, known for its accessibility for aspiring alpine climbers. It’s an ideal choice for those who have previously summited high-altitude peaks like Mount Kilimanjaro or Mount Elbrus and are now ready for their first significant Himalayan climbing expedition. The true summit of Lobuche East is reached after descending into a notable notch and then ascending steep snow and icy slopes. The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984. From its summit, you’ll witness breathtaking panoramic views of several snow-capped peaks in the Everest region and the dramatic Alpine Canyon.
Island Peak (Imja Tse – 6,189m / 20,305 ft):
Also known as Imja Tse, Island Peak is another highly popular trekking peak in the same Khumbu region, standing at 6,189 meters. Its name was coined in 1952 by Eric Shipton’s exploration party due to its striking appearance as an “island in a sea of ice,” surrounded by the Lhotse and Lhotse Shar glaciers. Island Peak offers a unique advantage with its high camp at 5,600 meters, facilitating a shorter and more manageable summit day compared to starting from a lower base camp.
The ascent of Island Peak typically begins by scrambling up a rocky gully to a ridge where crampons can be donned. From there, climbers traverse a series of fixed ropes towards the South Ridge glacier. The route across the glacier is generally straightforward but may involve navigating crevasses in certain sections. A final push leads to a 100-meter wall of ice and snow, climbing steeply at approximately 45 degrees towards the exposed summit crest. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with a spectacular panorama of Lhotse Shar, Makalu (West Face), Baruntse (North Face), and the iconic Ama Dablam (North Ridge). Island Peak was famously used as a training peak by the 1953 British Everest Expedition, with Tenzing Norgay himself being part of the first successful ascent to its summit.
Combined Expedition Itinerary & Highlights:
This grand adventure, guided and supported by our expert team, begins with a picturesque flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu and the entire Everest region.
- Trek to EBC: From Lukla, the trek follows the classic Everest Base Camp trail, winding through dense rhododendron and oak forests, leading to the vibrant Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar (3,440m / 11,290 ft). An essential acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar allows your body to adjust to the altitude. The journey continues through significant landmarks like Tengboche, Dingboche, Lobuche village, and finally to Gorak Shep (5,164m / 16,942 ft).
- Everest Base Camp (5,364m / 17,598 ft) & Kala Patthar (5,555m / 18,208 ft): From Gorak Shep, you’ll undertake an excursion to the iconic Everest Base Camp, adorned with colorful prayer flags. After this memorable visit, you’ll return to Gorak Shep. The next morning features an early ascent to Kala Patthar, a renowned viewpoint offering truly magnificent sunrise views of Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Pumori, Lhotse, Makalu, and other surrounding peaks.
- Lobuche Peak Ascent: After soaking in the views from Kala Patthar, you’ll return to Lobuche village and proceed to Lobuche Base Camp and then High Camp. The approach to Lobuche Peak is technically considered straightforward compared to many expedition peaks, making it an excellent learning ground for alpine climbing.
- Island Peak Ascent: Post-Lobuche, the expedition focuses on Island Peak. This involves navigating rocky ravines, fixing ropes, crossing glaciers, and a final push up a 100-meter ice/snow wall to the summit.
- Return Journey: The expedition then descends through the main Everest trekking trails back towards Lukla for your scenic flight back to Kathmandu.
Trip Profile:
- Mountaineering Objective: Summit two prominent trekking peaks in the Everest region: Lobuche Peak (East – 6,119m / 20,075 ft) and Island Peak (Imja Tse – 6,189m / 20,305 ft).
- Trekking Highlights: Includes the classic Everest Base Camp trek and an ascent to Kala Patthar, offering unparalleled views of Everest and surrounding giants.
- Panoramic Views: Witness breathtaking vistas of Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Lhotse (including Lhotse Mid-peak), Makalu, Nuptse, Baruntse, and the majestic Ama Dablam.
- Cultural Immersion: Experience the warm and friendly Sherpa culture and traditions, visiting their villages and monasteries.
Description:
This 22-day expedition is specifically designed for adventurous climbers aiming to conquer two significant peaks over 6,000 meters in the Nepali Himalayas. While Lobuche East and West are distinct, Lobuche East, at 6,119 meters, is a popular choice for acclimatization before tackling higher expedition peaks like Mount Everest, given its similar altitude to Everest Camp 1. The most common climbing route for Lobuche East is the South East Ridge, graded as AD (Assez Difficile) according to the Alpine Grading system. Even reaching the pre-summit offers incredible views.
Island Peak, or Imja Tse, is situated between the Lhotse and Lhotse Shar glaciers, renowned for its isolation amidst a “sea of ice.” Its first recorded ascent was part of a British team that included the legendary Tenzing Norgay in 1953, showcasing its historical significance as a preparatory peak for Everest. While popular, not all climbers reach the summit, often due to insufficient acclimatization, strong winds, or heavy snow. This expedition’s itinerary allows for robust acclimatization, crucial for success on both peaks.
Accommodation:
- Kathmandu: Standard hotel (3 nights).
- During Trek: Standard teahouses (13 nights). Most teahouse accommodation is twin-shared with shared toilet facilities.
- During Climb (High Camps): Tents (5 nights). Foam mattresses will be provided for comfort in tents. Sanitary facilities will be managed with necessary conservation in mind.
- Single Supplement: Available upon request for an additional $400 fee. Please note that single rooms may not always be feasible at all high-altitude teahouses (e.g., above Namche Bazaar) due to limited availability.
Food:
- Kathmandu: Welcome dinner, farewell dinner, and daily breakfast.
- During Trek/Mountaineering: All meals (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner) are provided. Breakfast and dinner will typically be at your accommodation. Lunch will be provided en route to the next destination. During the climbing days, freshly prepared, hygienic foods will be offered at the climbing camps. Enjoy a variety of Nepali, Tibetan, Chinese, Italian, and Indian cuisine.
Team Composition:
- Trekking: You will be accompanied by an experienced, well-trained, English-speaking mountain guide. For every four members, an assistant guide is provided, and for every two members, a porter will carry luggage.
- Climbing: A licensed, experienced, English-speaking climbing guide will lead the ascent.
- Group Size 2-4: One main climbing guide and one assistant guide.
- Group Size 5-8: One main climbing guide and two assistant guides.
- Group Size 9-12: One main climbing guide and three assistant guides.
- Support Staff: The team also includes an experienced cook and necessary Sherpa support staff (mostly assistants) who will aid in setting up camps during the ascent.
- Safety Assurance: This staffing ratio ensures the safety and well-being of each group member. If any member falls ill, the trip can continue as planned with adequate support. The maximum group size is limited to 12 people for optimal success and safety.
Physical Condition and Experience Requirements:
To ensure a successful adventure, participants must possess strong willpower, the ability to withstand harsh weather conditions, and a reasonable level of physical fitness and endurance.
- Daily Trekking: Typically involves 5-6 hours of walking each day.
- Summit Day: On the peak summit days for both Island Peak and Lobuche Peak, expect to walk for an extended duration of 10-12 hours.
- Prior Experience: While extensive prior climbing experience is not strictly required, basic high-altitude trekking experience is highly recommended.
- Pre-Climbing Training: Essential ice climbing training will be provided to all participants prior to the ascents. This training covers the fundamental use of climbing equipment such as ropes, ice axes, harnesses, and crampons.
- Medical Consultation: It is crucial for participants with pre-existing medical conditions (e.g., heart, lung, or blood diseases) to consult their doctor before undertaking this trip. You must inform us of any such conditions prior to booking.
Best Time to Travel:
The optimal seasons for the Lobuche and Island Peak Expedition are:
- Spring (March to May): Offers stable weather, moderate temperatures, and clear skies, ideal for climbing.
- Autumn (September to November): Provides another excellent window with stable weather conditions and clear mountain views.
While it is possible to climb Lobuche Peak and Island Peak in winter, very cold temperatures may not be suitable for everyone.
Travel Expenses and Start Dates:
Please contact us for detailed information on Lobuche East and Island Peak Expedition start dates and costs. We can also accommodate personalized departure dates based on your preferences.

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