Pumori Expedition Overview

Pumori (7,161m / 23,494 ft), or “Pumo-Ri” as it’s known in the Sherpa language, means “Unmarried Daughter.” This majestic mountain, named by the legendary George Mallory, is often referred to by climbers as “Everest’s Daughter” due to its close proximity, lying just 8km west of Mount Everest on the Nepal-Tibet border, within the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas.

Pumori is a highly regarded climbing peak, attracting mountaineers seeking a challenging yet achievable 7,000-meter objective. While its most common route, the South East Ridge, is often graded as a Class 3 climb, it’s important to note its significant avalanche danger and technical complexities. The first ascent of Pumori was achieved by Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition in 1962. Later, in the spring of 1996, Czech climbers Leopold Sulovsky and Michalec Zeduak pioneered a new route via the South Face.

Kala Patthar (5,643m / 18,513ft), a famous outlier of Pumori, emerges as a prominent brown bump beneath Pumori’s magnificent South Face. Many trekkers aiming for an up-close view of Mount Everest will ascend Kala Patthar, where they are rewarded with remarkable panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse on a clear day.

Pumori Expedition Routes & Camps:

Our mountaineering trips primarily follow the classic South East Ridge route. This expedition requires a solid understanding of mountaineering techniques and a degree of familiarity with the effects of high altitude. We typically establish three camps above Base Camp:

Base Camp (5,300m): This is your primary hub for the expedition.
Camp 1 (5,700m): Reached after approximately 4 hours of ascending along glaciers from Base Camp.
Camp 2 (6,200m): From Camp 1, the climb involves navigating a face with a 40-60 degree slope and traversing a snow wall. This section is often considered the most technical part of the climb.
Camp 3 (6,480m): From Camp 2, the route involves climbing through ice walls and crevasses to reach this final high camp before the summit push.

The final ascent from Camp 3 to the summit of Pumori requires navigating further crevasses and then climbing up the Pumori cliff to the true summit.

Expedition Services & Cost:

Himalayan Magic Treks proudly offers mountaineering trips to Pumori. We fundamentally offer two types of services:

Trekking Service up to Base Camp: This includes logistics and support for reaching Pumori Base Camp.
Full Summit Support Service: This encompasses comprehensive support from Base Camp to the high camps and the summit, including climbing guides, fixed ropes, and necessary logistics.

The cost of a Pumori Expedition is highly variable and depends on numerous factors, including:

Group size
Trip type (Base Camp service vs. full summit support)
Budget considerations
Tailored itinerary and duration
Accommodation preferences
Level of service above Base Camp
Number of climbing guides, porters, and other support staff
Mode of transportation
Other specific requirements

Due to this wide range of variables, the price for a Pumori summit expedition can differ significantly. We encourage you to email us to discuss your specific requirements for detailed information and a personalized quote.

Important Considerations:

Technical Difficulty: While some sources might grade it as Class 3, Pumori is generally considered a technically challenging 7,000-meter expedition with steep ice and rock faces, crevasses, and exposed ridges. It is crucial to have previous mountaineering experience and a considerable level of physical fitness and endurance.
Avalanche Danger: Pumori is known to have significant avalanche danger, particularly on certain sections of the route. Our experienced guides prioritize safety and route assessment.
Acclimatization: Effective acclimatization is paramount due to the high altitude. The expedition itinerary includes dedicated acclimatization days to help climbers adapt to the lower oxygen levels.
Preparation: Thorough physical and mental preparation is essential. Training should focus on building stamina, strength, and endurance for sustained high-altitude exertion.
Medical Consultation: Consult your doctor regarding any pre-existing medical conditions, especially heart, lung, or blood diseases, and inform us before booking.

Note: For detailed information on historical incidents and any fatalities on Pumori, please inquire with our experts.

Pumori Expedition